Improvement in collars for ladies and gentlemen



UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

FRANKLIN FIELD, OF TROY, NEW YORK.

Specification forming part of Letters Patent No. 39,390, dated August 14, 1863.

To all whom it may concern.-

Beit known that I, FRANKLIN FIELD, of the city of Troy, in the county of Rensselaer and State of New York, have invented a new and useful Improvement in Collars for Ladies7 or Gentlemens Wear, of which the following embraces a sufficient description, reference being had to the annexed drawings, in which the same letters refer to like parts in all the gures.

In order to increase the stiffness and nice appearance of ladies7 or gentlemens collars it is desirable to have in the outer edge,b,of the collar a narrow strip or cord, A, covered by the layers of cloth of which the main portion or body C of the collar consists.

Such collars have been heretofore made with a cord secured in the edge of the collar after the collar was run 7 and turned,77 by means of a row ofstitehes, made th rough the layers of cloth only, between the cord and the body ot' the collar; but the great difficulty of drawing a cord tight into the space between the said row of stitches and the edge of the collar, with the seam or inturned edges d of the cloth in that space, or the difficulty or impracticability of placing or holding a cord close in the outer edge and alongside of the inturned edges d of the run and turned collar, while making the row of stitches to secure the cord in the edge of the collar by means of any such sewing-machine as is commonly used in collar-manufacturingespecially when the collars have corners or short curves e-has ordinarily rendered collars of that construction too expensive to be generally manufactured and worn, and in such collars the cord itself was not stitched to the cloth of the collar, but was merely inclosed in the tube-like edge of the latter. Now, a collar that em bodies myinvention may be distinguished from all others by having a stiHening strip or cord, A, secured within the outer edge, b, of the collar, -by being rst stitched or sewed to and along the edge of one or more of the layers of cloth which are sewed together along the same edge and constitute the main part or body C ofthe collar, and then having the said connected layers of cloth turned over the said cord or strip A and fastened together, so as to inclose and retain the latter in the edge of the collar.

In the annexed drawings, Figures 3 and 5,

9, 13, 17, and 21 are broken side views; and Figs.4 and 6,10,14,18, and 22 cross-sections, taken at the line z z in the respectively opposite side views of various collars, each embodying my invention, and Figs. 1, 7, 11, 15, and 19 are broken side views; and Figs. 2, 8, 12,16, and 20, cross-sections taken at the lines y y in the respectively opposite side views of the layers of cloth f g, j' g 71 or f g hi and cord A, simply sewed together for the same collars. Y

In Figs. l, 2, 3, 4,5, 6, 7, S, 9,10, 19, 20,21, and 22 the cord andv layers of cloth are sewed together bya row of stitches, j,made through both the cord and all the layers of cloth. ln Figs.11, 12, 13, and 14 the cord A is sewed to the cloth by a row of stitches, 7c, through the cord and only one layer, q', of the cloth, and all the layers of cloth fg h 'i are there sewed together by a row of stitches, l, along the inner side of the cord. In Figs. 15, 16, 17, and 18 the cord A is sewed to the cloth by a row of stitches, m, made through the cord and the two layers i h of the cloth and in that case all the layers of cloth f g h i are sewed together by a row of stitches, a, along the outer side, Figs. 15 and 16, ofthe cord. In Figs. 3, 4, 5, 6, 9, 10, 13, 14, 17, 1S, 21, and 22 the cloth is turned over the cord and fastened together by a row of stitches, o, along, or more or less near to, the inner side of the cord, so as to thereby inclose and retain the cord in the edge of the collar.

I generally prefer to make my improved collars with the cord A and all the layers of cloth in the collar sewed together by one row of stitches, j, before turning the cloth over the cord, and in manufacturing that variety ot' my improved collars I generally prefer to proceed as follows-to wit: First cut out the pieces of cloth for the collars, and lay them one upon another in proper order, with or without a little paste in spots between them,in the common way of preparing an ordinary linen collar for running in a sewingmachine. Then provide a ball or other suitable quantity of the cord A which is to be used, and also furnish a common Vheeler & Wilsons or other suitable sewing-machine, threaded and in ruiming order, and having a cloth-presser, X, (shown in plan and longitudinal section in Figs. 23 and 24,) made with a groove at w to receive and guide the cord along the under side of the presser in the direction of the feed of the machine and across the place n, where the needle Upasses through the presser and the cloth-table T. Then place the layers of cloth for the collar properly between the presses X and table T, and edgewise against a lateral guide, S, and insert the cord A into the groove at w in the bottom of the presser, and along the top of the layers of clot-h to or past the needle U, and then put the machine in action, and direct the cloth so that the machine will draw along the cord and cloth C between the presser X and table T, and sew the cord and cloth together along the edge of the latter, by one row of stitches,

7', substantially asindicated by Figs. 1 and 2, 7 and 8, 19 and 20, and 23 and 24. Next open the said united layers of cloth and turn them inside out, so as to thereby inclose the seamedge cl and cord A, and bring the proper layers of cloth on the outer sides of the collar, and then press or iron down 7 the turned edge of the collar-all in the common way of turning ordinary linen or cloth collars preparatory to stitching them on a sewingmachine. Then, by means of a suitable sewing-machine, run a row of stitches, o, through all the layers of the turned collar, along that side of the cord which is next to the main portion of the collar, as indicated by Figs. 3, 4, 5, and 6, 9 and 10, and 21 and 22, to properly retain the cord in the turned edge of the collar; and, iinally, iinish the collar in any manner suited to the quality, style, and shape of the collar-as, for example, by turning in and stitching together the lower edges of the layers of cloth, as shown by Figs. 9, 10, 21, and 22, with or without other rows of stitch.- ing in the body of the collar, or by sewing the lower edge of the body C of the collar into a neck-band, as shown in Figs 3, 4, 5, and 6.

In manufacturing the varieties ot' my improved collar which have the cord sewed directly to only one or to only a part ofthe layers of cloth in the collar,I generally prefer to use the machinery and to proceed in the 1n annerj ust above particularly specited,except that in sewing the cord and cloth together before turning the collar I first sew the cord to only one or a part of the layers of cloth, by a row of stitches, 7c or m, Figs. 1l and 15, and next sew all the layers of cloth together by a row of stitches, l, Figs. 1l and 12, through the cloth only, along the inner side of the cord A, or by a row of stitches, n, Figs. 15 and 16, through the cloth alone, along the outer side ofthe cord. Yet I do not limit myself to the practice of the above-specified process, nor to the use of the above-mentioned mechanism iu manufacturing my improved collars, but shall, if desirable, use any other suitable apparatus in laying and stitching the cloth and cord together, and shall do that work by hand in case the machinery or apparatus shall not be procurable. And l fasten together the layers of cloth, after being' turned over the cord, either by means of the row of stitches o along the inner side of the cord or by any other suitable mea-ns whereby the cord will be sufciently well retained in the edge of the collar upon washing, drying, and ironing the latter.

I do not claim that it is new to stitch a cord and layers of cloth together along the edge of the latter, nor to secure a cord in the edge ot' a turned collar by a row of stitches uniting the layers of cloth along the side of the cord next to the body or main portion of the collar.

What I claim as new and of my invention, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is-

A collar having a stitfening strip or cord, A, secured in the edge ofthe collar by being first stitched to the cloth of the collar, and then having the layers ot' cloth turned over the cord or stiffeuing-strip and fastened together, substantially as herein set forth.

FRANKLlN FIELD.

Witnesses:

E. PATTERSON, V. H. KiNG. 

